From wet to bright blue skies...and flies

Darwin to Alice Springs
09 March 2026

Spirit had spent the night outside in the steady Darwin rain, which showed no intention of stopping while the crew carried out the morning preflight. Wet aeroplanes and damp crew members were very much the theme of the morning.

Many of the other guests at our hotel were residents of Katherine township, unable to return home because the Katherine River was now flowing some 63 feet above its normal dry-season level, making bridges impassable. With roads closed and crocodiles occasionally exploring new neighbourhoods, it was a turbulent time for the Northern Territory.

Our engines started well. Takeoff and climb-out into the cloud above Darwin were uneventful.

While the stratus cloud contained a great deal of moisture, two important factors were on our side. The first was the lack of convective build-up early in the day, meaning relatively little turbulence. The second advantage in this warm tropical region was the ability to cruise comfortably above the unseen terrain while still remaining safely below the freezing level.

This was useful, as icing concerns would almost certainly have existed at higher altitude. Spirit, like all aircraft, performs far better avoiding ice accumulation on wings and fuselage. Ice adds weight and disturbs the smooth airflow required to produce lift.

More weight and less lift is not generally considered a desirable aviation combination.

The aircraft remained enveloped in cloud for a considerable portion of the journey south. Just when it seemed the grey might continue indefinitely, the cloud began to thin. After a scattering of small cumulus clouds everything ahead opened into bright sunlight and deep blue skies. Eyes that had grown accustomed to grey cloud now squinted at the sudden brilliance.

Below us stretched a magnificent variety of hills, river systems and vegetation. After several hours flying across such extensive yet sparsely populated lands, the striking hills around Alice Springs began to rise into view.

With the afternoon heat it took a little longer to slow Spirit down for landing, but the generous runway left plenty of room to roll.

Spirit appeared to enjoy the chance to dry out after Darwin’s persistent rain.

There was, however, a catch to this bone-dry climate.

The flies.

These infamous Australian residents were plentiful and soon we were all waving like locals — literally every two or three seconds.

The crew unpacked and prepared for a photo shoot later that afternoon, this time with a Squirrel helicopter. It proved to be an exciting sortie. Its very experienced pilot circled the helicopter around Spirit during lineup for departure. When the brakes were released the race was on. With its head start the helicopter passed Spirit at close range alongside the runway before gradually being overtaken as Spirit’s speed increased beyond the helicopter’s maximum.

A very good setup for some excellent footage.

Once in the filming area, the difference between Spirit’s slowest flying speed and the helicopter’s fastest was managed by flying turns, with the helicopter on the inside and Spirit on the outside of the circle. The concept is rather like a school athletics track — the runner in the outer lane must travel faster to keep pace with someone on the inside.

Behind us the remarkable hills surrounding Alice Springs glowed in yellow, orange and deep red tones of the evening light, creating a magnificent backdrop.

The photo sortie finished with the helicopter flying alongside for the landing and taxi back onto the apron.

Its pilot, Griffo, who has spent thirty years flying helicopters including cattle mustering, positioned his machine with remarkable precision. While my ride alongside our film crew was certainly exciting, it also felt very well controlled and safe. Griffo remarked that this type of filming was among the most enjoyable flying he had done.

The debrief with him took place on the airfield next to Spirit as the most extraordinary outback sunset unfolded behind us.

What a day of contrasts.